If you’ve ever pushed yourself past your limits during a climbing session, you’re not alone. Trust me, I've been there. And you know what? It happens to the best of us. I’ve done this same thing countless times—getting caught up in the excitement, pushing my body too far, and suffering the consequences. But here’s the good news: it’s not the end of the world. In fact, it’s a huge opportunity for growth.
Overtraining isn’t just a physical issue; it’s an emotional one too. We all get carried away sometimes, thinking we can squeeze in one more attempt, one more move, or one more route. But eventually, our bodies say “enough,” and the next day’s performance suffers. It’s natural, it’s emotional, and it’s part of the learning process. The key is to break the cycle, and I can tell you from personal experience that doing so is a game-changer.
A few years ago, I made the decision to take control of my training habits, and the results were astonishing. Before that, I used to make this mistake every month or two, and it would set me back two full grades in my performance for weeks at a time! But with a few simple tools and mindset shifts, I turned things around. I now make this mistake far less frequently—and when I do, the consequences are much less severe. Here’s how you can do the same.
1. Pre-Session Journaling: Write It Down Before You Start to avoid overtraining
This is by far the most important step. Before you even begin your climbing session, take a moment to write down exactly what you plan to accomplish. How many attempts do you want to make? How long do you want to train? What specific skills do you want to focus on? The act of journaling will solidify your goals for the session and keep you on track, preventing the temptation to overdo it.
Once you commit it to paper, your chances of sticking to that plan skyrocket. When you have a clear, defined goal, you’re much more likely to follow through with it. This simple step will double your rate of improvement right away. Not only will you avoid the pitfalls of overtraining, but you’ll see faster progress and fewer setbacks in the long run.
2. Create Mantras: Mental Cues to Keep You on Track
In the heat of the moment, when you’re feeling strong and pushing for that extra rep or move, your mind will tell you all kinds of stories—about how you can “just do one more” or how you’re “feeling great, so why stop now?” To counteract this, it’s vital to have mantras in place that guide you back to the right decision.
I’ve found two that have worked wonders for me over the years. The first one is simple: “Be a big cat!” This mantra helps me remind myself to approach climbing with patience, discipline and strategy—like a big cat hunting its prey. It’s about being strong but also strategic. I’d love to dive into the full “Big Cat Theory” in a future article, but the gist is that it keeps me calm, controlled, and focused.
My second mantra is “Green Days Only” (see my first article for full explanation of this topic). This reminds me that my best days—my “green days”—are the ones when I train smart, stop early, and leave the session feeling good, not exhausted. Another variation of this is, “Save it; it’ll be more fun next time.” Even when I’m feeling great, I know that cutting the session short will ultimately lead to a more enjoyable, productive training session the next time around. Trust me—when you stop at the right time, the results will always be worth it in the long run.
3. Track Your Progress Visually: Create a Growth Graph
Sometimes, the best way to see progress is visually. One of the most powerful tools I used in my training was creating a growth graph. I recommend you do the same. Grab some graph paper and plot your progress each session. For each session, mark the following:
Green: If the session was short, focused, and you felt better the next day, mark it green and go upward.
Yellow: If the session was slightly longer but still productive, mark it yellow and move sideways.
Red: If the session was long and left you feeling sore or performed worse afterward, mark it red and go downward.
This simple visual tool gives you a clear, objective representation of your growth. It helps reinforce the fact that shorter, more effective sessions move you forward, while longer, overdone sessions are actually holding you back. Over time, you’ll start seeing a pattern, and you’ll be more motivated to cut your sessions short when necessary. This is a fantastic reminder that quality always trumps quantity when it comes to training.
Final Thoughts: Don’t Let Overtraining Derail Your Progress
If you adopt these three strategies—journaling before your session, creating mental mantras, and tracking your progress visually—you’ll never have to worry about overtraining again. These tools will help you build a sustainable climbing practice, improve faster, and avoid the frustration of set-backs due to overtraining.
I made it to the World Cups using these techniques, and they helped me break through plateaus I thought were insurmountable. I’ve seen the same transformation happen for my clients—climbers who were once stuck in the cycle of overtraining are now making steady, impressive progress.
The bottom line is this: Stop when you know you’re done. Your body and mind will thank you. Stick to the plan, train smart, and the results will come.
If the above weren’t enough…. Here Are 3 BONUS Tips to Help You Stop Climbing When You Know You’re Too Tired
Use a Timer: Set a timer for your training sessions. When the timer goes off, stop. This ensures that you don’t go overboard and helps you stick to your plan. Record how long your typical sessions last for and then set a timer for 15 - 45 minutes less and see which length of time works best for you.
Listen to Your Body: Learn to recognize the subtle signs of fatigue—such as slower movement or reaction times, sore fingers or body, or a drop in concentration. These signals are your body’s way of telling you it’s time to rest.
Plan More Rest Days: Include rest days in your weekly training schedule. Knowing that rest is just as important as training will make it easier to stop when you need to. Plus, the more rest you get, the more powerful your next training session will be!
By implementing these strategies, you'll train smarter, avoid injury, and keep making consistent progress toward your climbing goals!